Thursday, October 7, 2021

A Survival Guide for Life in the Palm Beaches

 By Bob Davidsson

         Most residents view the the Palm Beaches as a subtropical paradise. However, to many persons relocating to the area, Palm Beach County is a bitter disappointment.

        It all depends on your expectations. The Palm Beaches will never become New York, New Jersey or Boston. It is as it has evolved over the decades. Historically, the county's critics moved within five years.  

        When my family moved here 60 years ago, the population of Palm Beach County was less than 300,000. "Jim Crow" still existed in segregated communities and beaches divided by race. Much has changed for the better. There is still much to be done to keep the Palm Beaches as a destination county to the world. 

        I have created two Internet sites to help new residents better understand the history and important issues in Palm Beach County. "Palm Beach County Issues & Views" and its award-winning "Origins & History of the Palm Beaches" archive may prove useful in understanding our county.

(c.) Davidsson. 2021.

*NOTE: Read articles indexed below and archived in Older Posts.

Wednesday, August 4, 2021

Invasive Fish: Our Unwanted Denizens of the Deep

 By Bob Davidsson

        Reef fish with poisonous fins, a catfish that walks on land and a variety of fugitives from home aquariums are examples of the many invasive species of fish that are thriving in our coastal waters, lakes and canals in South Florida.

        The U.S. Geographic Survey defines invasive fish as any species living outside of its normal range with the potential to damage the local environment, economy or public health. Section 68-5.007 of the Florida Administrative Code says "No person shall import to the state, sell, possess or transport... prohibited nonnative species."

        The main sources of invasive fish in Florida are home aquariums. When tropical fish  become too large or numerous for a fish bowl, pet owners believe they are being merciful to their aquatic pets by releasing them in a neighborhood pond or canal.

        Unfortunately, most brightly colored tropical fish are soon consumed  by predatory fish or  birds. Those that survive and thrive in our warm subtropical waters often become pests by crowding the habitat of native species and outcompeting them for food.

        Some of the  nonnative invasive fish that have negatively impacted their local aquatic environments are profiled below:

The Lionfish

        The environmental aquatic enemy number one on Florida's reefs and coastal waters is the lionfish. It is a carnivorous fish with a voracious appetite that was native to the South Pacific and Indian Oceans.

        The first lionfish was reported in South Florida coastal waters in 1985. It is a popular ornamental fish in saltwater aquariums which quickly extended its range throughout the Caribbean and eastern coast of the United States once freed from the confinement of a fish tank.

        The lionfish has no natural predators due to its protective poisonous  fins. In coastal reef environments, it competes with native game fish like snappers and groupers. The lionfish feeds on 50 species of reef fish, and one female can release up to two million eggs each year.

The Walking Catfish

        Walking catfish are natives of southeast Asia. The nonnative species was introduced to Florida in the 1960s when they made their escape from aquaculture facilities. Their range has expanded throughout southeast Florida.

          The catfish received its name from its ability to wiggle across the land from one body of water to another in search of food or a better habitat. Their strong pectoral fins and long snakelike bodies allow them to slither on land. A special gill structure enables the catfish to breath air during their terrestrial journeys.

         The walking catfish is an omnivore that feeds on smaller fish, their eggs and larvae as well as plants. It is listed as an invasive species  by the Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission, and a permit is required to buy, sell or trade the nonnative fish.

 Bull's-eye and Northern Snakeheads 

       Snakeheads first appeared in the ponds and canals of Broward County in the year 2000. They are native to southeast Asia, where they are prized as a game and food fish. However, in South Florida, snakeheads are apex predatory fish feeding on native species.

        Snakeheads are distant relatives of native bowfins (mudfish), and they can breath air in low oxygen ponds or on land for short periods of time. The torpedo-shaped predators feed on native fish, and supplement their diets with crayfish, frogs, snakes, insects and turtles.

        Some fishermen prize the snakehead as a game fish,  but they should be handled with great care. They have a nasty bite that may become easily infected.

Cichlids and Tilapia

        There are 25 varieties of nonnative  tropical cichlids and related tilapia homesteading in South Florida waterways. Most can trace their nautical ancestry to South America and Africa. 

         They were introduced to Florida waters in the usual manner - released from home aquriums with the assistance of their human owners.  They are small but aggressive fish that vigorously defend their nests. They tend to crowd out native sunfish from their spawning sites through their large numbers, and unique "mouth breeding" technique of providing a refuge for their young when threatened  by a predator. 

        The State of Florida introduced the peacock bass to Lake Okeechobee, Lake Osborne and other South Florida lakes to help control invasive species. It is a rare example of a successful introduction of a nonnative species. Peacock bass feast on cichlids and tilapia. The bass also is popular with fishermen as a game fish.

The Monster of the Caloosahatchee

        In March 2021 fishermen found the remains of a arapaima floating near the mouth of  the Caloosahatchee River in Lee County. Magazines and newspapers across the nation had a field day reporting on Florida's newest monstrous invasive species.

        After the headlines faded, the mystery remains. How did a native species from the Amazon basin in  South America arrive in South Florida. More important, is there a breeding population of arapaimas in the Caloosahatchee and its interconnected waterways of Lake Okeechobee, the Kissimmee River, and east coast waterways by way of the St Lucie C-51 and Hillsboro canals?

        The arapaima has survived and thrived unchanged for five million years. In addition to  being, the world's largest freshwater predatory fish, the arapaima has large scales on its sides that act as body armor.

        The 400-pound arapaima has a varied diet consisting of  fish, lizards, small birds and mammals. The air-breathing omnivore also feeds on aquatic plants and any nuts or seeds within its reach.

The U.S. Wildlife Service reported in 2019 that "there are no established populations of arapaimas in the United States." However, the report did not deny the existence of arapaimas in Florida.

        The arapaima is classified as a "conditional species" in the State of Florida. That means a permit is required to keep one.  People who choose to collect or display the giant fish are instructed to confine it to a private tank. At least that is the hope.

        It remains unknown if arapaimas will join a growing list of predatory invasive species in Florida that includes Burmese pythons African monitor lizards, iguanas and aggressive tagu lizards from South America.*

c.) 2021. Davidsson.   

*NOTE: Article was reprinted in South Central Florida Life publications. Read also the April 2015 article titled "Alien Species Find Home in the Palm Beaches" archived in Older Posts.

Tuesday, June 15, 2021

Welcome To Beautiful 'Mosquito County': 1824-45

 By Bob Davidsson

        While it is not promoted in "Discover the Palm Beaches" tourism advertisements, for 20 years Palm Beach County formed the southernmost region of Florida's "Mosquito County".

        On Christmas Eve, Dec. 24, 1824, the Florida Territorial Legislature carved a vast geographical section out of St. Johns County, 190 miles long and sixty miles wide, along the east coast to create the territory's third county.

        Mosquito County was named for the old 16th century Spanish geographic landmark "Barra des Mosquitos" (Mosquito Coast) which encompassed the Mosquito Lagoon and Mosquito Inlet in today's Brevard County.

        Florida's third county included all or parts of today's Palm Beach, Martin, Okeechobee, St. Lucie, Indian River, Polk, Lake, Orange, Osceola, Brevard and Volusia counties. The southern border of Mosquito County was the Potomac (Hillsboro) River, flowing northwest to southeast before emptying into the coastal estauary just south of the Boca Raton Inlet.

        The first county seat of Mosquito County was "John Burch's House" located near Ormond Beach. It was relocated first to New Smyrna and finally to a pioneer community called Enterprise.

        Early maps of Mosquito County were inaccurate, reflecting a lack of first-hand information about the unsettled wilderness that covered most of the county in 1824.

        Lake Okeechobee was plotted on maps as "Lake Macaco" in Mosquito County until the Seminole's Muskogean name for the big lake came into use by U.S. Army topographers in the 1830s. Mapmakers placed the lake further west than its actual location.

        The wilderness north and east of Lake Okeechobee was designated as the "Seminole Indian Reserve". This was land that Florida's territorial government regarded of having little value to settlers.

        While Lake Worth was charted on Mosquito County maps, it was often listed by the generic name of "Freshwater Lake". The Spanish identified the lake as the "Rio Jeaga," named for the ancient tribe that inhabited its shores. The Seminole name was "Hypoluxo".

        The 1830 Census recorded 733 settlers living in Mosquito County. Most residents lived north of Cape Canaveral. The Census of 1840 revealed a population decline due to the outbreak of Second Seminole War in 1835.

The Seminole War in Southern Mosquito County

        Between the years 1838-42, the southern region of Mosquito County was a battleground pitting U.S. Army and Navy units against the Seminole and Miccosukee tribes. Following the Battle of Okeechobee in December 1837, Colonel Zachary Taylor built a supply depot on the eastern shore of the big lake called Fort McRae, then pursued the Seminoles southeast into the Loxahatchee Slough.

        The Seminoles fought two battles along the Loxahatchee River against a small U.S. Navy unit on Jan. 15, and the main army of Major General Thomas S. Jesup on Jan.24. After the battles, Jesup built a sable palm log stockade three miles west of the inlet called Fort Jupiter. Major William Lauderdale was dispatched to build a "Military Trail" between Fort Jupiter and Fort Dallas (Miami).

        More than 500 Seminoles, caught in the Loxahatchee Slough, surrendered to General Jesup and were detained at Forts Jupiter and McRae until transports were available to deport them to Oklahoma. However, medicine chief Sam Jones (Abaika) refused to surrender and led his followers south of the slough, along the eastern shore of Lake Okeechobee to the temporary safety of Big Cypress Swamp.

        In the year 1841, the war shifted from the Jupiter Inlet to the shores of Lake Worth (named for Col. William Jenkins Worth), where the remaining Seminoles were cultivating a variety of crops along both shores of the freshwater lake.

        Major Thomas Childs destroyed 2,000 bushels of potatoes and "several hundred bushels of corn" planted near Lake Worth while en route with units of Third Artillery from Jupiter Inlet to his new command at Fort Lauderdale in September 1841. Two days were required by his 90 soldiers to uproot and burn the extensive fields.

        Two months later, Captain Richard Wade led two explore and destroy missions between Fort Lauderdale and the Jupiter Inlet in November and December 1841. He sacked Cha-chi's village, located on the western shore of Lake Worth at the future site of West Palm Beach, capturing 27 Seminoles during the surprise attack. 

        On Feb. 14, 1842, Navy Lt. John Rogers led 87 Marines and sailors in 16 canoes across the Everglades to Fort McRae on Lake Okeechobee. He encountered several deserted villages while making a complete circuit around the lake, from McRae northwest to the Kissimmee River then back to the ruined remains of the stockade.   

        Few native inhabitants remained in the Palm Beaches by the war's end in 1842. Fort Jupiter was an abandoned outpost.

Settlers Seek New Name for 'Mosquito County'

        New Smyrna, the county seat of Mosquito County, did not escape destruction during the Seminole War. In December 1835, a band of Indians and allied former slaves burned the New Smyrna Sugar Mill, neighboring sugar plantations and several buildings in the village.

        The U.S. Army responded by building "Fort New Smyrna" in May 1837 to protect the few remaining settlers in the area. Captain Lucien Bonaparte Webster (1801-53) and 41 soldiers of the First Artillery garrisoned the outpost.

        The fort was used as a staging area and supply depot for General Jesup's 1837-38 campaign in southern Mosquito County at the Jupiter Inlet. As the Seminole War's battelines moved south, Capt. John Rogers Vinton (1801-47) and the Fort New Smyrna garrison was transferred to Fort Lauderdale. The outpost was abandoned in November 1841.

        With the Seminole War winding down to an inconclusive stalemate, 20 settlers in Mosquito County built a new community in 1841 near an ancient Mayaca Indian midden and gave it the hopeful name of "Enterprise". The village was the southernmost port on the St. Johns River. It became Mosquito's county seat from 1843-45 in place of the devastated community of New Smyrna.

        Beyond the communities of Enterprise and New Smyrna, Mosquito County was a depopulated wilderness as a result of the Seminole War. The county needed settlers. Mosquito was viewed as an impediment to future growth, and settlers twice petitioned the Florida Territorial Legislature for a new name for their county.

        A bill advanced in the Legislature changing the name to "Leigh Read County" in honor of the Speaker of the House of Representatives who supported the legislation. Both houses of the Legislature passed the bill.

        Unfortunately, Speaker Read was assassinated on April 27, 1841 by the friends of a man he previously killed in a duel. While several maps of "Leigh Read County" were printed, the authorizing bill was never signed into law.

        A 19th century conspiracy theory claimed the Mosquito legislation mysteriously never reached the governor's desk. Territorial Governor Richard Keith Call was a political opponent of Speaker Read. It was one of the first examples of a "pocket veto" by a Florida governor in 1842.

        A determined delegation of 72 Mosquito County citizens submitted a second petition to the territorial Legislature in 1844 to change the name Mosquito to "Harrison County" in honor of President William Henry Harrison, a hero of the War of 1812, who died in 1841 after just 31 days in office.

        The petition stated, "The name Mosquito is very unpleasant to many of the citizens..."

        President Harrison was the former standard bearer of the Whig Party. Florida Democrats opposed the name. "Orange County" was approved by the Legislature as a compromise in place of  "Harrison" on Jan. 30, 1845. Florida became the nation's 27th state less than two months later on March 3, and the unwanted name Mosquito County passed into territorial history. 

        Between 1850 and 1909, the southernmost region of Mosquito County would be annexed in turn by St. Lucie, Brevard and Dade counties. A greater "Palm Beach County" was created from the northern half of Dade County on April 30, 1909. It included northern Broward, Martin and southern Okeechobee counties.

        The current borders of Palm Beach County were established following the creation of Broward County in 1915, Okeechobee County in 1917 and Martin County in 1925. While mosquitos remain a minor nuisance, the county is no longer burdened by the name "MOSQUITO".

(c.) Davidsson. 2021.

*NOTE: See also "The Palm Beaches During Reconstruction: 1865-76" posted Feb. 1 and other articles archived below.

Thursday, June 10, 2021

The AWS: Our Local Eyes on the Sky, 1941-44

 By Bob Davidsson

        As World War II raged in Europe and Asia, hundreds of local volunteers joined the nation's Aircraft Warning Service (AWS), the civilian auxiliary of the U.S. Army's Ground Observation Corps, to watch for enemy planes flying over Florida's airspace.

        The AWS was organized through city and county civil defense agencies beginning in May 1941 in anticipation of the war coming to America's shore. At its peak, the AWS numbered 750,000 aircraft spotters along the Atlantic coastline from Canada to Key West, the Gulf of Mexico and the Pacific coast. A majority of the observers were women.

        By Sept. 20, 1941, there were 514 aircraft observation posts established in Florida. These included 13 stations in Palm Beach County, four in Martin County and two in Okeechobee County, according to the Florida State Planning Board in Tallahassee. More area observation posts were added after America entered the war.

        AWS volunteers were trained to identify the silhouettes of German, Japanese and American aircraft. Reported sightings were forwarded to regional "filter centers," and if confirmed, to the U.S. Air Corps First Fighter Command headquarters based in New York. Data gathered from multiple observation stations was used to track the movement of aircraft.

        With German U-boats lurking off the coast of southeast Florida  in 1942-43, there was a real fear in the Army's air command that the submarines might be assisted by enemy reconnaissance aircraft.

        AWS aircraft spotters were stationed on the roofs of the tallest office buildings in West Palm Beach, and on the Lake Worth Casino building. In Boca Raton, observers were stationed from dawn to dusk on a wooden tower built on the Red Reef beach.

        The AWS reporting stations were linked by telephone lines so volunteers could report suspicious aircraft or submarine sightings immediately.

        While the threat of German U-boats off Florida's coastline was proven by the loss of many ships, as the war progressed it became apparent that the Germans and Japanese lacked long-range bombers capable of raiding the U.S. mainland.

        Germany's only four-engine bomber was the Fw200 "Condor". The Condor was essentially a civilian airliner refitted for combat as a patrol bomber to sink allied shipping in the mid-Atlantic. 

        Prior to the war, a Condor made the first direct 4,000-mile flight from Berlin to New York City in August 1938. Ironically, the first generation of Condor airliners were powered by Pratt & Whitney engines purchased in America.

        There were no AWS reports of  bombing missions over the U.S. cities by the thin-skinned patrol bomber during World War II.

German Ju88 Bomber Buzzed the Palm Beaches

        However, in December 1943, three AWS spotters in West Palm Beach, Mr. and Mrs Merritt Smith and Mrs. Herbert Weiss, sent a "flash message" to the Army Air Corps by telephone. They correctly identified a German Ju88 light bomber flying over the Palm Beaches and reported its location.

        The Junkers Ju88 sighted by the observers was one of 15,000 twin-engined fighter-bombers built by Germany during the war. A Luftwaffe pilot decided to surrender by flying his Ju88 to an allied airfield. The aircraft, in perfect flying condition, was confiscated by the Army Air Corps and eventually transported to Morrison Field in West Palm Beach.

        The Army conducted a test flight over the Palm Beaches to evaluate the aircraft's strengths and weaknesses. The German crosses on the wings of the Ju88 were replaced by Army Air Corps stars. While the AWS volunteers correctly identified the Ju88 as an enemy plane flying over Palm Beach County, it was in fact piloted by an American.

    With the Germans and Japanese in full retreat, the U.S. Army disbanded the AWS in May 1944. The 14,000 observation posts in the United States were closed. The wooden AWS tower resting on Boca Raton's beach was dismantled in 1946.

(c.) Davidsson. 2021.

* NOTE: Article also was reprinted in the June 11, 2021 edition of the South Central Florida Life and the Okeechobee News. Read additional articles below and archived in Older Posts.

Sunday, May 16, 2021

Austrian Architect Designs Palm Beach Landmarks

 By Bob Davidsson

        During a brief but productive sojourn in the Town of Palm Beach, Austrian-born architect Joseph Urban designed three of the town's landmark buildings - the Paramount Theater, Mar-a-lago and the Bath and Tennis Club (B&T).

        In addition to the three historic sites in Palm Beach, Urban's architectural designs were selected for the Demarest Little Castle in 1925-6, and the Anthony Drexel Biddle Jr. residence a year later.

        Carl Maria Georg Joseph Urban, a noted architect, illustrator and theater set designer in the early 20th century, was born May 26, 1872 in Vienna, Austria. His professional education was completed at the Academy of the Fine Arts in Vienna.*

        Urban immigrated to the United States in 1911 to advance his career opportunities. Three years later he relocated from Boston to New York City to design the first of 47 scenic stage sets he would create for the New York Metropolitan Opera.

        While in New York, Urban also began a 17-year collaboration with entertainment entrepreneur Lorenz Ziegfeld Jr. He designed sets for his stage productions, including the "Ziegfeld Follies". In 1927, Urban was contracted as the architect for the Ziegfeld Theatre building in New York.

        It was this close working relationship between Ziegfeld and Urban that opened opportunities for the designer's five architectural projects in the Town of Palm Beach.

        Ziegfeld, a seasonal resident of Palm Beach since 1916, opened a live show called "Palm Beach Nights" Jan. 14, 1926 at his "Club de Montmartre" on Royal Palm Way. Urban arrived in the Palm Beaches to design stage sets for this original "Palm Beach Follies" production. 

        As fate would have it, investment banker Edward F. Hutton was building a mansion in Palm Beach for his wife, heiress Marjorie Merriweather Post, called Mar-a-lago (meaning from the sea to the lake). Ziegfeld accepted an invitation from Hutton to visit the building site on South Ocean Blvd. Soon after, architect Marion Sims Wyeth was replaced by Urban, who modified the designs.

        Complying with Marjorie Merriweather's request for a more flamboyant architectural style, Urban added Middle Eastern Moorish elements to the Mediterranean-revival designed mansion. These features included Mar-a-lago's distinctive minaret tower.

        Mar-a-lago was added to the National Register of Historic Places in December 1980. The estate was acquired by former President Donald Trump, who transformed it into the private Mar-a-lago Club in 1995.

        Concerned that a new development was planned on neighboring property immediately to the south of Mar-a-lago, E.F. Hutton joined Anthony Drexel Biddle in forming the Oceanfront Realty Company. The firm purchased the Causeway Park properties for $600,000. It became the site of the private, exclusive Palm Beach Bath and Tennis Club (T&B).

        Urban, the new architect for Mar-a-lago, was awarded an additional contract in 1926 to design the B&T Club. The architect also was selected by the Biddle family to design their new Palm Beach residence in 1927.

        The limited membership B&T Club is in its 95th year of operation. After sustaining storm damage during the Hurricane of 1949, the reconstruction of Urban's historic seaside building was assigned to Palm Beach architect John L. Volk.

        Today, the B&T Club's Mediterranean revival architecture is maintained by membership fees and the not-for-profit Bath and Tennis Historic Building Preservation Foundation, Inc. 

        Urban's connection with Ziegfeld, combined with his reputation as a designer for the Metropolitan Opera and William Randolph Hearst's film company in the 1920s, led to a contract to design the new "Paramount Theater" in Palm Beach.

        The architect's self-described vision for the Paramount was a "cool and comfortable theme" reflecting a rhythm in Palm Beach that was "leisurely and sunny." By the late 1920s, Urban's work was influenced by the "art deco" architectural movement.

        The Paramount's exterior contains Spanish revival features, but its simple lines emphasize a subdued art deco palette of silver and green colors. Urban's goal was to design a theater that illustrated the Palm Beach lifestyle.

        "The theater is not an escape from the life around," he later wrote, "but part of it, fitting into the rhythms of the community. The architecture of the Paramount Theater is accordingly simple, spacious, Southern."

        The theater was built on a 1.3-acre lot on North County Road. The 35,992-square-foot building was topped by a dome and featured an interior courtyard when it opened to the public in 1927. The 2.5-story building included the main 1,068-seat theater-auditorium, with a stage and balcony.

Opening Night at the Paramount Theater: 1927

        The Paramount Theater opened as a "movie palace" on Jan. 9, 1927 with a premier performance of the silent film "Beau Geste" staring Ronald Coleman.

        At its grand opening, capacity seating was provided for 1,236 patrons, consisting of 1,080 in the orchestra section and main auditorium with an additional 156 seated in balcony boxes. The interior side walls of the fan-shaped theater were covered by 60-foot canvas murals depicting marine life off the coast of Palm Beach. The murals were designed by the architect's daughter, Gretl Urban Thurow.

        The silent movie was accompanied on opening night by a 16-piece orchestra. Musician Emil Velasco was featured on a Wurlitzer organ to provide appropriate background theme music as patrons read the movie's dialogue on the big screen. 

        The theater was refitted with a sound amplification system after the first "Talkie" movies were introduced in 1928.

        Paramount's stage also featured some of the top live entertainers of the 1920s and 1930s. They included appearances by George Gershwin, Al Jolson, Will Rogers and Billie Burke - Ziegfeld's wife and an actress in the "Wizard of Oz".

        A total of 2,000 first-run films were projected at the Paramount Theater during its 53 years as a movie palace. The theater closed on May 21, 1980 after a final showing of "Coal Miner's Daughter" staring Sissy Spacek.  The Paramount could not compete with smaller theaters offering multiple movies and screens.

        During the early 1980s, the Paramount was refitted with 30 office suites. It reopened as a Palm Beach retail center in 1985.

        Paramount Church, Inc., a not-for-profit religious organization, purchased the property in 1996 for $3.7 million. The Rev. Dwight Stevens led nondenominational church services in the auditorium for nearly 27 years. True to its earlier use as a theater, the church occasionally offered classic films and Friday movies with religious themes at the Paramount during this period.

        The Covid-19 viral pandemic forced the Paramount Church to offer remote online services during 2020-21. The church leader decided it was time to place the historic building up for sale.

        The Paramount was purchased in March 2021 by an ownership company titled WEG Paramount LLC for about $14 million. The company represents the family of Lester and Trent Woerner. Future improvements to the historic structure will be in compliance with the Palm Beach Landmarks Preservation Commission.

        Pictures of past performers, famous guests and movie posters line the corridor walls of the historic building. The Paramount Theater was added to the National Register of Historic Places in December 1973. The Town of Palm Beach granted the theater landmark status in 1982.

        As for the theater's architect, Joseph Urban died of a heart attack at his St. Regis Hotel apartment on July 10, 1933. At the time of his death, the 61-year-old architect had designed more than 500 stage sets for 168 theatrical and film productions in addition to his architectural projects in Palm Beach.  

(c.) Davidsson. 2021.

*NOTE: The "Joseph Urban Collection," consisting of documents, stage models and architectural designs, is archived at the Columbia University Libraries in New York. Read additional articles below and archived in "Older Posts".  

Thursday, April 22, 2021

WPB Morrison Field and the B-29 'Superfortress'

By Bob Davidsson

        On June 15, 1944, 51 B-29 "Superfortress" bombers dropped their payloads on the Imperial Iron and Steel Works located on the Japanese home island of Kyushu.

        The surprised and embarrassed military high command in Japan immediately sought the origin of America's new long-range, high-altitude bombers - the first to attack Japan's homeland since the Doolittle Raid launched a handful of B-25 medium bombers from the deck of the U.S.S Hornet in April 1942.

        The mission's origin: Chengdu, China, by way of  Morrison Field in Palm Beach County, Florida.

        The B-29 bombers that struck Japan were the first of 150 aircraft making the long journey from the U.S. Army Air Corps field in suburban Palm Beach County to China as part of the top secret "Operation Matterhorn" between June and November 1944.

        At the November 1943 Cairo Conference, President Franklin D. Roosevelt promised to support China's hard-pressed Generalissimo Chiang Kai-Shek with direct U.S.  bombing missions on Japan. It became the objective of Operation Matterhorn.

        The only weapon available to fulfill Roosevelt's promise to the Chinese leader was the new Boeing B-29 Superfortress - a huge four-engine bomber measuring 99 feet in length, with a wingspan of 140 feet, and capable of carrying a bomb payload of 120,000 pounds of high explosives or napalm. The bomber had a range of 1,500 miles, with a pressurized cabin that allowed it to fly above 30,000 feet.

        Rushed into production at plants located in Reston, Washington, and Wichita, Kansas, at a cost of $3 billion in 1940 dollars, the first B-29s arrived at Morrison Field as part of the 20th Bomber Command.

        Morrison Field, the site of today's Palm Beach International Airport (PBI), was originally a county airstrip dedicated in 1936 west of West Palm Beach. It was acquired by the U.S. Army as a future air base in 1940. The military base was activated as an air transport and training facility at the end of 1941.

        The B-29s used in Operation Matterhorn flew from their assembly plants to Morrison Field, where they were fueled and fitted for the long journey to China.

        To reach their destination, the B-29 crews flew from Morrison Field to Puerto Rico, south to British Guiana and Brazil in South America, then to Ascension Island in the South Atlantic, across the ocean to Liberia and Cairo, Egypt, in Africa, east to Tehran and Karachi in the Middle East, and the Kharagpur air base near Calcutta, India.

        The bombers completed their journey by flying over the Himalaya mountains to their airfields in Sichuan Province, China.

        Logistical support for the bombers had to follow the same extended supply lines. The B-29s were supported by the 3rd Combat Cargo Group at Morrison Field. 

        It required a herculean effort to supply the B-29s in China with fuel, bombs and spare parts. In his analysis of Operation Matterhorn, General Curtis LeMay later said it was "founded on an utterly absurd logistics basis...with a scheme of operations like something out of the Wizard of Oz."

        During its six months of operations, the 20th Bomber Command supported the allied war effort by flying missions over Japanese-occupied Manchuria, Korea, the Dutch East Indies, Malaya, French Indo-China, Burma, Taiwan, Thailand and the Chinese coastal cities of Hong Kong and Shanghai. The B-29s also completed nine missions over Japan's southern islands.

        General Douglas MacArthur called these first B-29 bombing missions over Japan "a new type of offensive against the Japanese home islands" in one of his many communiques.

        To the Japanese people, the huge bombers were "the silver crosses" - as the unpainted metallic planes appeared at ground level when flying at 30,000 feet. With the arrival of the B-29s, Japan's military government could no longer deceive its citizens in 1944. The war was a lost cause.

        Following the capture of the Pacific's Mariana Islands between June and August 1944, the U.S. Army Air Corps began building B-29 bases on Tinian, Guam and Saipan for the bombing of Japan.

        Operation Matterhorn flights to China were phased out beginning in November 1944. The B-29 missions from China ended in January 1945. By March 1945, the last B-29s with their crews flew from India to the Mariana Islands. 

B-29 'Hurricane Hunters' at West Palm Beach

        Morrison Field officially opened on Jan. 19, 1942 as part of the Air Transit Command. During World War II, about 45,000 pilots and air support personnel were trained at the air field.

        After the war, the 308th Reconnaissance Group, also known as the "Long Range Weather Unit," began operations from suburban West Palm Beach in July 1946. Modified B-29 Superfortresses were called into service to collect data as part of the National Hurricane Research Project for the "U.S. Air Weather Service".

        The Military Air Transport Service (MATS) used the retitled "Palm Beach Air Force Base" as its hurricane research headquarters throughout the 1950s. The former B-29 bombers, designated as "WB-29 Superfortresses" from 1951-56, and modified as the "WB-50" from 1956-63, became part of the first generation of "Hurricane Hunter" aircraft.

        The former World War II bomber adapted well to its new role. It could fly above a tropical storm, and had the durability to pass through hurricane-force winds.

        The 9th Weather Group continued performing hurricane and climate research in West Palm Beach for the Air Weather Service until the National Hurricane Center was established in Miami. The joint use of Palm Beach International Airport as a military base ended in 1962.   

(c.) Davidsson. 2021. 

*NOTE: Article also was reprinted in "South Central Florida Life". Read additional articles below and archived in Older Posts.

Friday, March 19, 2021

'Picture City' Aspired to Become a New Hollywood

 By Bob Davidsson

        "When one crosses the South Bridge at Jupiter Lighthouse, the finest ocean driveway in the entire world is open for approximately the entire distance to the St. Lucie Inlet," a 34-page booklet promoting the planned community of "Olympia-Picture City" proclaimed in 1926.

        "Nowhere in the state - nor in any other state - nor in any other country in the world - will one find its equal," the real estate guide concludes.

        In 1923, the agricultural Indian River Association's affiliated company in Martin County sold 4,000 acres of land on Jupiter Island and the adjacent mainland at Hobe Sound to a new investment group called the Olympia Improvement Corporation. The property was originally part of the old Eusebio Gomez Spanish Land Grant during most of the 19th century.

        Malcolm Meacham (1884 - 1929) of Palm Beach and New York City, a prominent figure in South Florida real estate developments during the state's "Land Boom" of the 1920s, organized and served as the first president of the Olympia Improvement Corportation in Hobe Sound. The community was within the borders of Palm Beach County until 1925.

        The development plan for the Olympia Improvement Corportation was to create a community called "Olympia," in a Greek-revival architecture style, with two coastal subdivisions called Olympia Beach and Bon Air Beach  It would be supported by a suburb named "Picture City," where movies could be produced and filmed.

        Wealthy investors flocked to the project, including Philadelphia millionnaire and diplomat Anthony Joseph Drexel Biddle Jr. (1897 - 1961), upon whom Meacham betowed  the title of  the company's second president in 1925.

        Meacham also obtained the financial backing of banks in Palm Beach County. The developer was  vice president of the Palm Beach National Bank which he helped establish in 1924-25.

        Swiss architect Maurice Fatio of the firm Treanor and Fatio relocated to Florida and signed a contract with  Olympia Improvement Corporation President Anthony Biddle in 1925 to design homes and business structures within the community. 

       His first project was the Olympia School, a Spanish-revival mission style building designed in 1925. He also designed a resort hotel with Greek temple architectural features to match Olympia's classical theme. The draft design was featured in the "Olympia-Picture City" promotional booklet, but the hotel was never built.

        Later in his career, Fatio designed the Town of Manalapan's historic "Eastover" and "Casa Alva" mansions for shipping and railroad heirs Harold and Consuelo Vanderbilt during the 1930s.

        One early 20th century movie mogul enticed to support Olympia's "Picture City" project was Lewis J. Selznick (1870 - 1933), the father of Hollywood producer David O. Selznick.

        Lewis Selznick founded the World Film Corporation in 1914 to produce silent movies at his New York studio. He later moved to California with his son, were he continued to make films under the studio names of Selznick Productions, Inc. and Selznick International Pictures.

        When his business ventures in California failed during 1925, the producer turned to the Olympia  Improvement Corporation's Picture City as a potential place of employment in the future.

The 'Olympia-Picture City' Community Plan

        Beginning in August 1925, Meacham, acting as the registered agent for the community, filed incorporation documents for the Picture City Studios, Inc., the Picture City Corporation and the Picture City Construction Company, Inc. with the State of Florida.

        The Olympia Improvement Corporation also lobbied the Florida Legislature for a charter encompassing an area "extending along the Atlantic Ocean for a distance of 7.5 miles," and "along the Indian River (Jupiter Narrows) for about nine miles."

        The Olympia-Picture City planners envisioned a community of 40,000 residents, supported not only by the film industry, but by winter tourism and real estate sales.

        In the 1926 promotional booklet, publisher Felix Isman wrote, "It is common rumor that when Henry M. Flagler desired to locate 'Palm Beach', he exerted every possible endeavor to obtain the Gomez (Spanish Land) Grant upon which to locate that city, and it was not until all his efforts had failed that he went elsewhere."

        "Such is the Gomez Tract (Hobe Sound and Jupiter Island) situated well outside the frost belt in fashionable, tropical, seashore Florida," the publisher concludes. "Its tropical venue cannot be excelled."

        The development plan for Olympia and Picture City, platted in Martin County after it was created out the northern third of Palm Beach County in 1925, featured lots of 50 by 100 feet, located on 10,000 acres of land. The homes would be located on streets and boulevards as wide as 100 feet, never less than 50 feet. The streets are named for Greek gods and heroes - Apollo, Zeus and Hercules etc.

       The Olympia section of the community was planned to "extend along the ocean from the St. Lucie Inlet to the Jupiter Lighthouse," according to 1926 promotional guide. "Along the westward portion of Olympia, the Picture City development of New Deauville, Picture City Park, Studio City and other developments are actually in progress - cities within a city."

        The community of Olympia-Picture City had highway and railroad networks planned to connect them with Palm Beach to the south, and major cities along the eastern coast of the United States.

        Their promotional booklet reported, "Starting at approximately 22 miles in a northerly direction from Palm Beach, Olympia-Picture City extends many miles along the Dixie Highway and has at the present time two railroad stations on the property, Olympia and Gomez. Two more, Picture City and New Deauville, are contemplated."

        "In the charter of the Florida East Coast Line," publisher Felix Isman wrote, "there is a provision that every passenger train must stop at Olympia Station."

The Demise of Olympia-Picture City

        The planned Olympia-Picture City township was doomed to failure by four financial and natural disasters beyond its control.

        The first was the collapse of the Florida "Land Boom" at the end of 1926. It was followed by the deadly Hurricane of 1928, the Stock Market Crash of 1929, and the Great Depression of the 1930s.

        The first sign of future financial troubles appeared in March 1926. The developers failed to make a loan payment to the Farmers Bank & Trust of West Palm Beach. The bank filed a foreclosure action in court six months later.

        The Biddle and Duke families, whom invested heavily in the project, foreclosed on Olympia-Picture City land holdings to acquire remaining unsold assets. They later sold their holdings to J.V. Reed and his newly established Hobe Sound Company in 1933.

        The Picture City Studios and Picture City Construction Company were dissolved in 1936, according to State of Florida business records.

        Pioneer Hollywood producer Lewis Selznick died of a heart attack at the age of 62. He never produced a movie at Picture City. His son, David (1902-65), continued the family's business in Hollywood, producing such classic films as "Gone With The Wind," "Rebecca" and "Spellbound".

        Following the demise of the Olympia-Picture City project, the Olympia Improvement Corporation President Anthony Biddle Jr. invested in several failed business ventures in the 1930s before changing careers and becoming a diplomat. He served as the U.S. ambassador to Norway, Poland and Belgium. Biddle was an officer in World War II, rising to the rank of major general.

        As for Olympia-Picture City developer Malcolm Meacham, he moved on to a new business enterprise in the Florida Keys, where he established the Key West Foundation Company.

        Meacham owned a Palm Beach home called "Casa Bougainvillea" on Barton Avenue, but in March 1929 he was residing at his New York City apartment on East 72nd Street.

        During the Stock Market Crash of 1929, a March 19 New York Times headline screamed, "Realty Man Dies in 11-Story Plunge: Malcolm Meacham Found Dead on Sidewalk in Front of Apartment on East 72nd Street."

        The newspaper reported "the real estate dealer with offices in New York City and Florida" accidently fell through an open window while experiencing a "dizzy spell".

        The name "Hobe Sound" was restored to the Martin County community in 1928 after bankruptcy and a category four hurricane flattened the dream of a new Hollywood.

         The "Olympia School" building on Apollo Avenue was used by the development company as a sales office and community center. It was acquired by Martin County and became a public school building until 1962. The building became a National Register of Historic Places site in October 2002.

        The historic school building, street signs bearing the names of Greek gods and heroes, and a few cement lamp posts remain today as a reminder of a time in the past when Hobe Sound was part of Olympia-Picture City.

(c.) Davidsson. 2021

*NOTE: Article was reprinted in the May 6, 2021 digital edition of the "South Central Florida Life" news service. Read additional articles archived below and in Older Posts.

Friday, March 5, 2021

'Floresta': Where Mizner Meets the Prairie School

 By Bob Davidsson

        The Floresta subdivision in Boca Raton has the unique distinction of being designed by Palm Beach County's renowned  architect Addison Mizner and completed by Hermann von Holst, a disciple and leading advocate of Frank Lloyd Wright's "Prairie School" suburban style of architecture.

        In October 1925, the short-lived Mizner Construction Corporation began building 29 houses designed by the architect on West Palmetto Park Road in Boca Raton. New York builder Dwight P. Robinson was awarded the construction contract for the project.

     Addison Mizner (1872 - 1933) planned a residential community featuring his iconic use of Spanish Colonial-revival style of archtecture. His use of barrel-tile roofs, rough-lined stucco walls and wrought-iron balconies have influenced building designs in Palm Beach County for more than three generations.

        Mizner's 94 historic structures built in Boca Raton and the Town of Palm Beach include the Everglades Club, the Arcade (Via Mizner) off Worth Avenue, the El Mirasol mansion, and the Cloisters Inn section of the Boca Raton Hotel and Club.

        Unfortunately for the Mizner Development Corporation and its chief architect, the Florida 'Land Boom" of the 1920s ended before he could complete his planned residential community in Boca Raton. His company became insolvent in 1927. 

        A group of investors holding the property's mortgage filed a bill of complaint against the developer and assumed control of the project.

Hermann von Holst and 'Floresta'

        The architect called upon to complete Mizner's 29-unit subdivision was Hermann Valentin von Holst (1879 - 1855) of Chicago. He also was one of the investors in the Boca Raton project.

        Von Holst was born in Freiburg, Germany, the son of noted historian Hermann Eduard von Holst. His family moved to Chicago in 1891, where the elder von Holst became a professor and head of the University of Chicago's history department.

       His son received degrees from the University of Chicago in 1893 and also from the M.I.T. architectural school in 1896. In 1906, he opened his own architectural firm in Chicago.

        Von Holst's career was influenced by architect Frank Lloyd Wright (1867 - 1959) whose Oak Park Studio was located near Chicago. Wright and his protégée designed the "Prairie School" style of architecture for their projects in the early 20th century.

        When Wright moved to Europe in 1909, Von Holst took over his unfinished architectural commissions and managed the Oak Park Studio company until his return to America in 1911.

        Von Holst is best known for the publication of "Modern American Homes" in 1912, followed a year later by the unabridged "Country and Suburban Homes of Prairie School Period," with its compilation of 424 photographic examples of this uniquely American architectural style.

        A World Catalogue review of his comprehensive architectural guide states, "The 1913 publication of Von Holst's collection of 'Country and Suburban Homes of the Prairie School Period' is one of American architecture's finest primary sources of residential design."

        Since its first printing in 1913, Von Holst's literary work has been released in 20 editions and is still a valued resource for architects more than a century later.

        The "Prairie School" of architecture was made popular in America by Wright and his designers between the years 1900 and 1914. It is considered the first distinctive American design valuing what Wright termed "organic architecture" that reflected the surrounding environment and local history.

        When Von Holst relocated in Boca Raton to supervise the completion of Mizner's subdivision, he wisely recognized that the Spanish-revival style homes designed for the community were compatible with Florida's indigenous Hispanic colonial architectural history dating back to the 16th century.

        Von Holst named the suburban community "Floresta," meaning  a "delightful rural place" in Spanish. The 39.7-acre subdivision was officially platted with street names listed by Von Holst in November 1927, according to Palm Beach County Clerk of Courts records.

        By enhancing Mizner's designs with narrow tree-lined streets and lush subtropical landscaping, Floresta also met the "Prairie School" goal of blending with the local environment.

        Von Holst was so impressed  with Floresta that he chose to live the remainder of his life at his "Lavender House" home in the subdivision. His two-story Spanish colonial-style house was built between 1926-28. It was selected as a "National Register of Historic Places" site in 1995.

        The architect retired in 1932, and lived with his wife, Lucy, at the Lavender House. He became active in civic affairs, serving on the Boca Raton City Council from 1934 to 1949, and as chair of the Boca Raton Planning Board in 1940.

        A grateful City Council granted him an honorary emeritus life membership in 1953. Von Holst was lauded by the City of Boca Raton "in recognition of faithful, loyal and unselfish service." The architect died two years later while residing at his beloved Floresta home in Boca Raton.

        The "Old Floresta Historic District" became the first subdivision to received this designation in 1990 by the City of Boca Raton. An historic marker was placed in 2008 by the Boca Raton Historical Society and Florida Department of State at the intersection of West Palmetto Park Road and Cardinal Avenue.

(c.) Davidsson. 2021

*NOTE: Read additional articles archived below and in "Older Posts".

Sunday, February 14, 2021

South Florida's 'Saltwater Railroad' to Freedom

 By Bob Davidsson

        For more than 40 percent of Florida's population living in slavery during the early 19th century, the paths to freedom converged along the coastline of the Palm Beaches and led south to Cape Florida, where a dangerous voyage across the Florida Straits was rewarded with sancutary in the Bahamas.

        Located at the southern end of Key Biscayne is the "Bill Baggs Cape Florida State Park." Between the years 1821-61 the historic site was a secret meeting place for escaped slaves and Black Seminoles awaiting sea transport to the safety of the Bahamas.

       In September 2004, Cape Florida was designated as a "National Underground Railroad Network to Freedom Site." The park also is the site of the the historic Cape Florida Lighthouse, first completed in 1825.

       The lighthouse was a beacon guiding Bahamian fishing boats and abolitionist sailing vessels to Key Biscayne, where escaped slaves could gain passage to the British island chain.

        The "Underground Railroad" network, extending from southern slave states to Canada, was the well-documented road to freedom operated by abolitionists and freed African-Americans. It also had a lesser-known southern branch called the "Southern Underground Railroad," or more commonly the "Saltwater Railroad," along the southeast coast of Florida with an overseas route to the Bahamas.

        Slavery has a long history in Florida, but during its historical timeline the state was a sanctuary in the 18th century and offered a path to freedom in the early 19th century for its most oppressed population.

Slavery and Freedom in Spanish Florida: 1565-1821

        African slaves arrived with the fleet of Spanish colonists when the Adelantado Pedro Menendez de Aviles founded the City of St. Augustine on Sept. 8, 1565. A census conducted in 1602 by Florida Governor Gonzalo Mendez de Canco recorded 52 slaves living in the colonial city.

        Between the years 1672 and 1695, African slaves and mission Indian laborers built the Castillo de San Marcos out of coquina stone. The historic fortress is the oldest permanent structure in Florida.

        Unlike instiutionalized slavery in the English colonies to the north, Spanish laws allowed slaves to marry, own property and purchase their freedom through contractual agreements with their owners. As a result, St. Augustine had a diverse population of European colonists, native Americans, and both free African-Americans and slaves.

        On Nov. 7, 1693, King Charles II of Spain issued a royal decree providing sanctuary and protection in Florida to escaped slaves from the English colonies of Virginia and the Carolinas. Escaping slaves could request permanent asylum and Spanish citizenship in Florida by accepting baptism in the Catholic Church, enlisting in the local militia, and obeying the laws of Spain.

       The "King's Edict" to Florida Governor Laureano de Torres y Ayala (1693-99) states, "As a prize for having adopted the Catholic doctrine and become Catholicized, as soon as you receive this letter, set them all free and give them anything they need, and favor them as much as possible."

        "I hope this to be an example, together with my generosity  of what others should do," the King's letter concluded. "I want to be notified of the following of my instructions as soon as possible."

       To no surprise, Spain's lenient policy resulted in an influx of escaped slaves to Florida from  neighboring English colonies, and ongoing political tension between Spain and England. The issue of Florida's sanctuary policy for slaves was inherited by the United States when it gained its independence in 1783.

Florida's Freedom Trail by Land and Sea: 1821-61

        The United States purchased Florida from Spain for $5 million as part of the Adams-Onis Treaty of 1821. Florida became a U.S. territory on March 10, 1821. Spain's tolerant sanctuary policy for slaves was scrapped by the new territorial government.

        A series of "Black Codes"  (Article XVI) were codified in the Florida Constitution of 1838. The article prohibited the territorial General Assembly from passing laws to emancipate slaves.

        A plantation system was established in northern Florida as far south as the Suwannee River along the west coast and the upper St. Johns River near the eastern coastline. Central and southern Florida was the domain of the Seminole nation and a few scattered military outposts.

       On March 3, 1845, Florida was admitted as the 21st state of the Union. It joined the United States as a slave state.

        By the year 1860, Florida had a population of  about 140,000 persons. Of this total, 61,475 were African-American slaves. There were only 700 black Freedmen living in Florida, mainly in the cities of Key West, Jacksonville and Pensacola.

        The Saltwater Railroad to freedom was created by abolitionists and native Bahamians, with the tacit approval of the British government in Nassau which allowed sanctuary in the island chain. England abolished the slave trade in 1807, and the Emancipation Act of 1833 formally abolished slavery throughout the British Empire. 

        By contrast, slavery continued in Cuba until abolished by royal decree on Oct. 7, 1886, making the Bahamas the destination of choice for fleeing slaves in Florida and southern Georgia.

        Several inland freedom trails converged east of Lake Okeechobee, and continued along the coastline south of the Palm Beaches to Key Biscayne. African-American slaves were joined at Cape Florida by Black Seminoles - former slaves adopted into the Seminole nation, where they created their own unique culture.

        Faced with deportations during and after the Seminole Wars, about 200 Black Seminoles used skills acquired from the Indians to build dugout canoes capable of completing the voyage across the Florida Straits. They founded their own settlement on Andros Island.

        The exact number of African-Americans that followed the Saltwater Railroad to the Bahamas is unknown. One estimate is as high as 6,000, which would have been 10 percent of the slave population in Florida.

        Whether escaping slavery in Florida by Bahamian fishing boats or dugout canoes, they had to survive tropical storms, strong currents in the Gulf Stream, coastal pirates and slave hunters during voyages of more than 100 miles at sea.

        The U.S. and Florida governments conducted a 40-year campaign to capture fleeing slaves and Black Seminoles between 1821-61. The State of Florida offered a $350 reward for the return of "lost property". Florida also financed a network of "patrollers" to track fugitive slaves.

        The federal Fugitive Slave Act of 1850 required the return of slaves to their southern owners, even in free states. The Act of Congress also made the federal government responsble for finding, returning, and the punishment in court of escaped slaves.

        Abolitionist Jonathan Walker learned the hard way that U.S. Navy warships, based in Key West, actively patroled the southeast coast of Florida for vessels carrying fugitive slaves along the Saltwater Railroad.

'The Man with a Branded Hand'

        Captain Jonathan Walker (1799 - 1878) of Harwich, MA, was the best known of the abolitionists operating the Southern Underground Railroad. He moved to Pensacola to continue his career and observed first-hand the injustice of slavery in Florida.

        In his "Memoir," Walker wrote that he "came to the conclusion that slavery was evil and only evil." He believed he had a divine obligation to help free men from the "national poison" of slavery.

        Captain Walker hid seven fugitive slaves in his small trading vessel and sailed from Pensacola in 1844, bound for a safe harbor in the Bahamas.

        While in the Florida Straits, he became ill and incapacitated. His vessel was discovered after 14 days at sea by a passing U.S. sloop searching for shipwrecks along the southeast coast of Florida.

        Walker and his passengers were taken to Key West. Local authorities determined he would be returned to Pensacola to face charges. He was chained to the hull of the "U.S.S General Taylor" and transported back to his home port.

        Once in Pensacola, he was arrested, charged and convicted by a Florida jury of "aiding and inducing two slaves to run away, and stealing two others." As part of Walker's punishment, U.S. Marshal Eben Dorr ordered him tied to a pillory in Pensacola and branded with a hot iron on his hand with the letters "S.S." - an acronym for "slave stealer".

        Walker was imprisoned in Florida for 11 months in solitary confinement until abolitionists from across the country were able to gather funds to pay his $600 fine. After his release, he moved to Michigan, where he continued his work as an abolitionist and guest lecturer.

        Walker's plight gained national fame when poet John Greenleaf Whittier wrote a poem about his ordeal in Florida titled "The Man with a Branded Hand" in 1846.

         On May 9, 1862, Union Major Gen. David D. Hunter, an abolitionist officer, issued "General Order No. 11" freeing 900,000 African-American slaves within the jurisdiction of his Department of South Carolina, Georgia and Florida. His order was rescinded and superseded by President Lincoln's "Emancipation Proclamation" on Sept. 22, 1862.

        The Civil War marked the end of the 40-year Saltwater Railroad. General Hunter also began enlisting black volunteers in the Union Army. Slavery's days were numbered in Florida.     

(c.) Davidsson. 2021.   

*NOTE: See also "The Palm Beaches During Reconstruction: 1865-76" below. Additional articles are archived in Older Posts.

Monday, February 1, 2021

The Palm Beaches During 'Reconstruction': 1865-76

 By Bob Davidsson

        During Florida's "Reconstruction" period (1865-76), the area later known as the Palm Beaches was in the geographic center of a proposed terrritorial homeland for former African slaves called "New Liberia," and a failed transporation network extending from the Georgia border to South America.

        Colonel Thomas W. Osborn was the commanding officer of Battery D, First Regiment, New York Light Artillery, during the Civil War. As fate would have it, he served as the chief artillery officer under Gen. Oliver Otis Howard at the Battle of Gettysburg.

       General Howard, known as the "Praying General," appraised his artillery commander as "a quiet unobstrusive officer of quick decison and pure life."

       Howard remembered Osborn's qualities when he became commissioner of the U.S. Freedmen's Bureau from 1865 until it was disbanded in 1872. He selected Osborn as his assistant commissioner of "Freedmen, Refugees and Abandoned Lands in Florida" in September 1865.

        Osborn devised an ambitious plan for the resettlement of Freedmen (emancipated black slaves) in South Florida. It was nothing less than the establishment of a "New Liberia" based on the model of the former U.S. colony created for African-Americans by President James Monroe in 1820.

        Osborn presented his proposal to General Howard in January 1866. He recommended the U.S. buy the entire Florida peninsula below the 28th parallel and organize a new territory to be homesteaded by former slaves.

       "We shall give (the land) a territorial organization of government," he advocated. "The lands shall be held exclusively as homesteads for freedpeople."

        In his written proposal, Osborn estimated there were 14,400 square miles of arable land that could sustain 115,200 farm families if each homestead was limted to 80 acres. He predicted 400 new townships could be created, which would be self-supporting through the production of tropical agricultural crops.

        Osborn reported "a home of 80 acres" for each family would allow the resettlement of a total population of 595,000 "freedpeople" on new homesteads in South Florida.

        The land south of the 28th parallel included the boundaries for Dade County, redrawn after the Civil War. The thinly settled county, including the Palm Beaches, had a total population of just 85 settlers by 1870.

        Osborn organized an expedition, led by Lt. Col George Thompson and Freedmen's Bureau special agent William Gleason, to explore and report on the economic potential of Dade County for his model settlement. Both men were impressed with South Florida.

        After a two-month stay in Dade County, Lt. Col. Thompson wrote, "The most promising agricultural lands lay along the Everglades... If the government conducted drainage it would develope into the garden spot of the United States."

        In the end it was the high cost of drainage and climate concerns that doomed the project. Freedmen's Bureau resettlement efforts would focus on northern Florida instead.

        In place of a territorial homeland south of the 28th parallel, General Howard and Congress supported the "Southern Homestead Act of 1866," opening 19 million acres of federal lands in Florida for use by Freedmen and other Civil War refugees. The Freedmen's Bureau opened land offices to assist the new homesteaders.

        Freedmen acquired deeds for 32,000 acres of land  by October 1866. One year later, they secured 2,000 homesteads totaling 160,960 acres, and by the year 1870 there were 9,000 African-American landowners in Florida, more than any other public-lands state during Reconstruction.

        Palm Beach County pioneers Samuel and Fannie A. James were among the former slaves that became homesteaders in Dade County. They secured a 186-acre section of land in what would later include downtown Lake Worth Beach.

        On Nov. 15, 1865, Osborn also issued a written circular ordering that Freedmen were allowed to testify in Florida courts, and restricting the use of corporal punishment - including scourging with a whip. Bureau officials supervised state courts until a new civilian government was estabished in Florida in 1868.

        In a May 1866 tribute to Osborn's service with the Freedmen's Bureau, the editor of the "Tallahassee Floridian" wrote, "We doubt whether the duties of the Bureau could have been administered by anyone more acceptably, alike to the blacks and the whites, than they have been by Colonel Osborn."

        As for special agent Gleason, the Wisconsin native remained in Dade County, where he established a Republican Party power base from 1866-76 during Florida's Reconstruction. He was elected lieutenant governor of Florida in 1868 and supported Osborn's future political and business ambitions.

        Osborn was elected as a delegate in 1868 to the Florida State Constitutional Convention held in Tallahassee. The convention's goal was to reestablish civilian rule in Florida in compliance with federal requirements for readmittance to the Union.

        Between May 1865 and 1868, Florida was under military control as a defeated supporter of the Confederacy. The "Reconstruction Act of 1866" established military rule over southern states until new civilian governments could be formed to ratify the 14th Amendment (African-American citizenship) and 15th Amendment (voting rights).

        After Florida was readmitted to the Union on July 4, 1868, Osborn obtained the support of  Republicans, Union Democrats and newly enfranchised Freedmen voters to win election to the U.S. Senate.

        However, once elected, Senator Osborn's commitment to public service became secondary to the twin ambitions of political power and economic gain.

        He became head of the infamous "Osborn Ring" of northern investors and carpetbaggers seeking quick profits in Florida during the federally mandated Reconstruction period.  His pet project was the building of a "Great Southern Railway" from the Georgia border south to Cape Sable with a shipping network to South America.

The 'Great Southern Railway': A Rail to Nowhere

        Senator Osborn lobbied Congress for land grants and federal subsidies to finance the project while at the same time purchasing stock in the company. The Great Southern Railway was incorporated by a special act of the Florida Legislature  on Feb. 19, 1870.

        The Legislature granted the corporation "special powers to construct and operate a railroad from the St. Mary's River, on the northern border of Florida, to the most southerly available harbor of the state, and to own and operate in connection with the rail, and as an integral part of the company's Line, steamships and other sea-going vessels to Cuba and the West Indies Islands and South America."

        The company stockholders, including Senator Osborn and political ally Lt. Gov. Gleason, selected the senator's older brother, the Rev. Abraham Coles Osborn, as president of the Great Southern Railway.

        This act of political and corporate family incest inspired an editorial writer for the  "Brooklyn Eagle"  to write, "It seems (Rev. Osborn) spent more time in the secular world than the religious. He was the chaplain to the wealthy, and was married twice, both women of wealthy families."

        The State of Florida granted the railroad a right-of-way of 200 feet of land from the rail line, and the "same number of lands known as swamp and overflow" when the railway passed through the Palm Beaches and Dade County.

        The Great Southern Railway was authorized to raise $10 million in stock sales. To attract investors, the new railroad company promised "in 10 years each investor would earn $1 million."

        His lobbying efforts and political arm-twisting in Congress on the behalf of the Great Southern Railway earned Senator Osborn the nickname of "Railroad Tommy". In April 1871, one Washington, D.C. newspaper recorded his unethical congressional activities as "an extraordinary development of fraud."

        The 1874 "Maps of Florida," published by Columbus Drew of Jacksonville, traced the projected route of the unbuilt Great Southern Railway from the Georgia border, passing south through central Florida, then turning southeast from Lake Okeechobee to a destination near Turkey Point in southern Dade County.

        Its path through the future Palm Beach County would have placed the proposed rail along the Beeline Highway (S.R. 710), then turning south and following the secondary ridge line used by the U.S. Army to clear the "Military Trail" in 1838. It would have passed a short distance west of Lake Osborne and the county's chain of lakes.

       Only 84 miles of new rail tracks were laid during the entire 10-year period of the state's Reconstruction. The Great Southern Railway became a failed business venture due to a lack of investors.

        The Great Southern Railway Company remained inactive for 100 years until it was "dissolved by proclamation" by the Florida Division of Corporations on Oct. 21, 1974.

        In a rare example of political contriteness, Senator Osborn made the following confession in a May 25, 1871 letter to correspondent Enfant Perdue: "As for myself, I am truly sorry I had anything to do with it (the railroad), for even the boot-blacks at the Capitol, with an indifference to senatorial dignity approaching nearly to the sublime, have dubbed me Railroad Tommy."

       Senator Osborn was not nominated by his party to run for a second term in the U.S. Senate. He returned to New York City where he continued his career in government service. The Rev. Abraham Osborn also left Florida and became a noted theologian in New Jersey.

        When his bachelor brother died in 1898, the Rev. Osborn made arrangements for his burial in the family plot at the Hillside Cemetery in North Adams, N.J.                          

(c.) Davidsson. 2021.   

*NOTE: Article also was reprinted in the Feb. 9, 2021 editions of the Belle Glade & Pahokee Sun. Additional articles below and archived in Older Posts.

Monday, January 18, 2021

Coconut Plantation Was Once Planted on Our Coast

 By Bob Davidsson

        If not for a plague of rabbits in the 1880s, the barrier islands from Boca Raton to the Jupiter Inlet may have become a coconut plantation instead of rows of condominiums and mansions planted today along our coastline.

        Ezra A. Osborn and Elnathan "E.T." Field of New Jersey created the "Field and Osborn Company" in 1880. They obtained venture capital from 60 investors to purchase 75 miles of coastal properties extending from Cape Florida to Jupiter for the purpose of growing coconuts as a cash crop.

        The fruit or nuts from coconut palms (cocos nucifera) are harvested for their dried meat (copra), processed to make oils and flour, and their husk fibre (coir) used in the making of ropes and cordage, sacking, padding, woven mats and netting. Today, more than 250,000 tons of coir fibre is processed annually.

        The Field and Osborn Company purchased the unsettled oceanfront land in Dade County for between 75 cents and $1.25 per acre from the U.S. government. The Palm Beaches were part of Dade County in the 1880s.

    The coconut plantation investment was launched in 1882 when Capt. Richard Carney, the company's foreman, with 25 workers from New Jersey and a mule team, rowed ashore in surf boats and set up camp on Miami Beach. The schooner "Ada Dorn" was chartered to obtain a shipment of coconuts from Trinidad.

        They were joined at their new base camp at Indian Creek in Miami by Frank Osborn, Ezra's eldest son, who remained in Dade County to oversee the agricultural project on the behalf of the company and its investors.

        Charles Pierce, a pioneer on Hypoluxo Island, was hired as a stevedore to unload the coconuts. He later chronicled the enterprise in his journal. The first shipment of 100,000 coconuts were planted north of Miami in 1883.

        A second shipment of coconuts arrived from Nicaragua the following year. They were planted on Virginia Key and Cape Florida. A third and final shipment of 117,000 coconuts from Cuba were planted north of Boca Raton, according to Pierce.

      He wrote, "The winter after that (1885) another cargo was landed on the coast from Boca Raton north to the lower end of Lake Worth." Frank Osborn arrived with the schooner to observe the delivery of the cocounts to the Palm Beaches. He used the Orange Grove House of Refuge No. 3 (1876-96), located 10 miles north of the Boca Raton Inlet, as a temporary headquarters.

        By the end of 1885 the liquid assets of the Field and Osborn Company were nearly exhausted. There were no funds available to maintain or expand the plantations. Pierce provided a colorful narrative about the sad end of the business venture.

        "Unfortunately, as soon as the tender sprouts came from the ground," he observed, "the rabbits that infested the area found they liked the (coconut) sprouts better than their former diet of sea oats; the result was that there are very few trees growing today that came from the planting of these thousands and thousands of nuts."

        Field and Osborn sold their land holdings in the Palm Beaches and other coastal areas of Dade County to cover their debts as the company became insolvent. Ezra Osborn continued his career as an engineer in New Jersey.

        Captain Carney (1862 - 1941) remained in Dade County after business venture failed. He would later serve as the first sheriff of Miami Beach.

    When Ezra died in 1895, surviving children Frank and Mary Osborn became co-executors of his estate, including the remaining properties in Florida. One of their last holdings, three acres at the Hillsboro Inlet, was sold in 1904 to the U.S. Department of the Treasury for $300.

       Among the properites lost to the Osborn family was a section of land adjacent to a body of water bearing their name - Lake Osborn(e). The place name remains a part of their legacy.

(c.) Davidsson. 2021.

*NOTE: See related story titled "Lake Osborne: The Shining Spirit of Fresh Water" indexed and archived with other articles in Older Posts

Monday, January 4, 2021

Lake Worth: The Seminole's 'Breadbasket' in 1841

 By Bob Davidsson

        When the first pioneers settled along the shores of Lake Worth in the late 1870s, they found a pristine wilderness and assumed it had always been uncultivated marshes and pine barrens. They were wrong.

        Forty years prior to their arrival, Lake Worth was a center of agricultural production and the breadbasket of the Seminole tribe. In fact, their fields and gardens were so vast along the freshwater lake that it took four U.S. Army expeditions to destroy and thus deny this valuable resource to local native Americans.

        Brevet Major Thomas Childs (1796 - 1853), the new commander assigned to Fort Lauderdale, was the first Army officer to observe the "luxuriant fields" of native Seminole crops during his expedition from Fort Pierce to his new base in September 1841.

        Major Childs was one of the few Army officers to serve the entire seven-year duration of the Second Seminole War (1835-42). His mission was to reactivate Fort Lauderdale as a base of operations against hostile Seminoles south of the Jupiter Inlet.

        Major Childs, with five officers and 85 soldiers of the U.S. Third Artillery, rowed 13 boats down the Indian and St. Lucie rivers to the Jupiter Inlet on Sept. 6. He then divided his command with half sailing south along the barrier island, while a second force marched in unison along the shore.

        To his surprise, Major Childs discovered a coastal freshwater lake (Lake Worth) described as "13 miles long and one to one and one-half miles wide." Inexplicably, the garrison at Fort Jupiter failed to explore and chart the lake in 1838.

        A few historians have credited Major Childs with the naming of the waterway as "Lake Worth" in honor of his commanding officer, Colonel William Jenkins Worth, though the origin of the place name is still a topic of debate.  The Seminoles called the lake "Hypoluxo". It was known as "Rio Jeaga" - river of the Jeaga Indians - during the Spanish colonial period. 

        The original Jeaga inhabitants of Lake Worth (3,000 B.C. to 1715 A.D.) were a hunter-gatherer tribe relying on the region's natural resources. By contrast, the Seminoles, like their parent Creek nation, were an agricultural society supplementing their diet by hunting and gathering.

        Along the eastern shore of the lake, Major Childs noted "extensive fields of corn, pumpkins, potatoes, Indian peas, melons, tobacco, rice and sugar cane in a high state of cultivation." The cultivated fields were interconnected by a trail used by the Seminoles between the stands of sawgrass and mangroves.

        The major ordered the fields destroyed so the harvest could not be used by "hostile" Indians. It was not an easy task. The expediton camped along the shore of Lake Worth for five days. It required two days for the 85 soldiers to uproot and destroy the fields they discovered.

        Major Childs estimated the fields contained 2,000 bushels of potatoes and several hundred bushels of corn. He failed to capture any Indians, but reported his command delivered a heavy blow to the Seminole's source of food.

        In a letter written on Sept. 18, 1841, Major Childs reported, "My opinon is these fields belonged to Sam Jones (Miccosukee medicine chief Abiaka) and his party, and that Indians were sent from Okeechobee to tend these."

Search and Destroy Missions Along Lake Worth

        The elusive medicine chief Sam Jones became the nemesis of the U.S. Third Artillery, based  at Fort Lauderdale, from September 1841 until Colonel Worth brought the war to a close in August 1842. Search and destroy expeditions were dispatched by Major Childs to Lake Worth, Lake Okeechobee, the Loxahatchee River and as far south as the Shark River valley in the Everglades.

        Sam Jones and his followers eluded all of these Army and Naval expeditions, but his village sites and agricultural food sources did not. It became a war of attrition and slow starvation within the Everglades and coastal waterways in South Florida.

        In the Everglades, the Seminoles made flour from "coontie" (Florida arrowroot), and ate "taal-holelke" by boiling the hearts of native swamp cabbage palms. In fertile hammocks and coastal areas of southeast Florida, women cultivated corn, beans, squash, potatoes, pumpkins, rice, sugar cane and melons.

        The Seminoles practiced "intercropping" - harvesting several types of plants in the same field - to maintain soil fertility. They either planted or left untouched trees that produced fruits or other edible food sources.   

        Captain Martin J. Burke of Company I of the Third Artillery left Fort Lauderdale Sept. 3, 1841 with 119 enlisted men and five officers. They rowed up the New River and dragged their boats across the Everglades with the goal of surprising Seminole camps on the south shore of Lake Okeechobee.

        Rowing past the future sites of Belle Glade and Canal Point, the Burke expedition reached the deserted outpost of Fort McRae, described by the officer as an "old palmetto fortification". (Fort McRae was built by Colonel Zachary Taylor following the Battle of Okeechobee in 1837.) They used the old supply depot as their base of operations for three days while searching for Seminole villages.

        Only two Indians were spotted along the shore of Lake Okeechobee and none were captured. The net result of the expedition was the destruction of one small Seminole camp site, hidden within an Everglades hammock east of the big lake, and destroying their supply of "coontie".

        While the Burke mission failed to locate hostile Indians, his expedition gave notice to Seminole leaders that the shores of Lake Okeechobee and the hammocks of the east Everglades were no longer safe places of refuge.

        On Nov. 8, 1841, Captain Richard Wade with 80 soldiers of the Third Artillery raided Cha-Chi's Village, located within the freshwater chain of lakes 1.5 miles west of Lake Worth in the future city of West Palm Beach. Cha-chi's hunting camp on the Hillsboro River was attacked the previous day and the village chief was captured. *

        Wade reported, "Here we were conducted to another village which we surrounded and surprised and captured 27 Indians, took six rifles and one shotgun, and destroyed a large quantity of provisions and four canoes. The next morning we set out on our return to the boats."

        In early December 1841, Major Childs ordered Lt. Francis Wyse to return to Lake Worth and destroy any remaining agricultural fields on the western shore that his earlier expedition in September missed. The Wyse "scout mission" produced "no prisoners nor enemy casualties," only the destruction of crops.

        Two more expeditions were sent to Lake Worth in mid-December. Captain John Rogers Vinton left Fort Lauderdale on Dec.15 with 120 soldiers in 19 boats. They paddled north along the entire length of Lake Worth, then portaged their boats and entered the Loxahatchee River.

        Captain Vinton was responding to reports that Sam Jones was camped along the Loxahatchee. They failed to locate him. Only one Indian, named Kata Micco, was captured, whom Vinton described as "a wild and eccentric character associated with no party - though an actual relative of Sam Jones himself."

        Captain Vinton was ordered to wait for the arrival of a second expedition led Captain Wade at the site of Fort Jupiter. When Wade failed to arrive, Vinton's force rowed north to the St. Lucie River and the Army base at Fort Pierce.

        Captain Wade's second expedition to Lake Worth, following the destruction of Cha-chi's Village in November, set off from Fort Lauderdale on Dec. 19 with 17 canoes and 80 soldiers. He followed Vinton's route to the south end of Lake Worth.

        Assigned to the expedition was Lt. Andrew A. Humphreys, a topographical engineer sent to chart the waterway. His 1841 journal was edited and reprinted as an official U.S. Department of War "Memoir" with maps in April 1856 for use in the Third Seminole War (1855-58).

        The 1856 "Memoir" was one of first military documents to use the place name "Lake Worth" and was subtitled "Inland Routes from Fort Jupiter to Fort Lauderdale."

        Lt. Humphreys reported, "Lake Worth is a pretty sheet of water, about 20 miles long and three-quarter of a mile in width; bounded on the west by pine barrens, and on the east by sand hills of the beach, which are sometimes 12 to 15 feet in height and covered with cabbage trees, wild figs, mangroves, saw palmettos, with here and there a variety of cactus."

        Most of the cultivated fields along the shores of Lake Worth were already destroyed by earlier expeditions by Childs, Wyse and Vinton when the second Wade expedition reached the waterway.  

        Lt. Humphreys observed "Along the eastern shore of the lake are long strips of cultivable ground about 200 yards wide, separated from the beach by ponds and wet prairies. These were formerly tilled by the Indians, who had large villages in the neighborhood. The soil is light but very rich, being almost entirely vegetable mould."

        By the time Captain Wade reached the rendezvous site of Fort Jupiter, the Vinton expedition had already departed for Fort Pierce. Wade returned to Fort Lauderdale by way of the Atlantic coastal ridge which extended north to south, passing near the ruins of Cha-Chi's Village and through the freshwater chain of lakes in central Palm Beach County.

       The search and destroy missions by Childs, Wyse, Wade and Vinton effectively eliminated Lake Worth as a supply base for the Seminoles of southeast Florida by the end of 1841.

        Before he was deported to Oklahoma in 1842, one Seminole chieftain named Nethlock-a-mathlar told his captors: "Our crops last summer were entirely destroyed, which never occurred before, and the approach of troops from all quarters scattered our people, separating husbands and wives, parents and children for safety."

        "From moon to moon" he said, "we thought the soldiers would retire, but they continued their destruction as fast as we could plant. There was no alternative but to improve the first opportunity to surrender."

        In a letter sent to General Winfield Scott in February 1842, Colonel Worth estimated the strength of the remaining Seminoles as 300 persons, of which 112 were warriors. He recommended an end to the war.

        Sam Jones, Billy Bowlegs, Chipco and their followers remained undefeated and hidden in the "Locha Hatchee" (Loxahatchee River basin), the Everglades and swamps north of Lake Okeechobee until the stalemated war ended on Aug. 14, 1842 by a unilateral decree of the U.S. War Department.  

(c.) Davidsson. 2021.

*NOTE: The article was reprinted in the Jan. 17 digital editions of "News Break" and "South Central Florida Life." It is the second in a two-part series. See also "The Seminole Tribe's Legacy in Palm Beach County" below, and other narratives in Older Posts.